Beginning leash training

After you choose the right collar (see my last post dated June 17, 2010) it's time to move onto leash training.  I find that the biggest barrier to getting good leash training accomplished is that people set up the expectation that this should all be completed in one session.  Impatience will get you nothing but frustration.  Going into leash training with the understanding ahead of time that it should be broken into several small steps will not only keep you and your puppy happier, it will end up making leash training much easier and faster.

For the first step, put your puppy's collar or harness on if it isn't already on.  I have found getting on the ground and putting the puppy on your lap, petting, cuddling and scratching him / her is a good thing to do while you start putting on the collar and attaching a leash.  Alternatively, if your puppy knows the "sit" command, you can ask him / her to sit while you put their collar on and attach the leash.  Then make sure you take the puppy out or over to a place they like so they associate the collar and leash with something they like, such as a walk, or playing in the yard.

I find it best to use a strong but relatively lightweight leash. If it is a big puppy, a leather leash will be lightweight enough, but I like to avoid chains if at all possible.  Chains can cause pain to you if the puppy jets off and the links tighten around your hand.  They also add weight and noise that may distract your puppy.

The entire first lesson will be focused only on getting the puppy NOT to bite on the leash or pull back.  If there is one thing that you must remember, never, ever, ever get into a tug of war with your puppy.  If the puppy starts pulling back, either walk towards them or distract them with a diversion.  If you walk towards them, walk past or around them and stop, so there is no tension on the leash anymore, but the puppy hasn't "won" the tug of war by getting you to go directly to where she / he is trying to get you to go, but to somewhere else.

Step two: Stay put and let the leash go slack.  The puppy will likely start sniffing around and exploring.  He will take a few steps and you will let them go wherever he wishes within the length of the leash.  Once he gets to the end of the leash, if he tries to start pulling, don't let him. Stand firm or move in another direction a couple of steps (not in the direction opposite to his pulling because that will just get you into a tug of war). If the puppy follows, praise him and give him lots of hugs and cuddles.  You may want to use treats as reinforcement, but I prefer to train as much as possible without using food as a motivator.

If your puppy keeps pulling back, try picking her up (if they are small enough) and reposition her (don't pick her up and carry her, just reposition her so she is looking in a different direction).  Then repeat Step 2.

Whenever your puppy tries to chew on your leash, stop her immediately.  I like to use the command "Eh-eh" instead of "No" because for some reason, the puppies seem to respond better to it.  Take the leash out of her mouth and pull it up away from her reach. Pick her up and reposition as above or walk a couple of steps in another direction and start Step 2 again.

If your puppy doesn't start pulling back, just start taking a couple of small steps (not looking at the puppy) and stop, seeing if the puppy will follow. If your puppy follows and stops when you do, exploring the new area you have moved to, give her lots of positive reinforcement, pick her up and take her inside the house.  Once inside the house, give her one of her favorite treats. Going back into the house is one of the exceptions I make to using food as a motivator. This way, the puppies associate "home" with where they get food.  This tends to dissuade them from going far away from home without you, and gets them to come back quickly if they jet out the front door when you don't want them to.

This will be enough for the first lesson.  This lesson should be repeated several times until you find the puppy doesn't bite at the leash or pull back from you when their leash is on.  Keep each lesson short and end on a good note.