To dress or not to dress...

Costumes for puppies? Opinions on this subject span a broad range of reaction from intense dislike to apathy...to bizarre obsession. But you might want to consider some of the positive impacts of "dressing" your puppy up from an early age. By getting your puppy accustomed to the feel of items around their necks and chests, it often makes it easier if and when you need to put a cone or veterinary sweater on your dog for medical reasons. Additionally, if you live in climates where sweaters or rain jackets make your pups much more comfortable, getting puppies used to wearing clothing starting from an early age will reduce future hassles.

In our family, our two daughters used to constantly "dress" their canine buddies in shirts, skirts, scarves...whatever the puppy would put up with. Of course this all needs to be done under supervision by an adult, and before children costume their canine friends, you have to teach them how to do so safely. And if they either like or put up with it, you might even get some very cute pictures!

Temperature control and comfort is an important factor to remember when you first bring your puppy home. Often your puppy just left an environment that was full of several heat-generating brothers and sisters. Romping around solo could be a very new and uncomfortable experience. So remember to make sure your new puppy is warm enough to be comfortable and content.

Another common mistake - first night alone!

Do all puppies whine at night? In my experience the answer is no. Most puppies don't whine at night, and even if they do, they quit after a few minutes. Then why do so many new puppy owners complain of nights full of crying puppies?

Imagine that you are sleeping in your own bed. Your spouse beside you, and the temperature set perfectly so you can get a comfortable night's sleep. Then the next day when you go to work, instead of going home, you are taken to a restaurant you haven't been to before, then put into large warehouse you haven't seen before. You are left alone with only a cot and a blanket. It's much colder than you are used to, smells different and there are noises you've never heard before. You don't see or hear anybody around, so you feel very much alone.

Chances are you would start yelling out loud, trying to get out or at least trying to figure out how to become more comfortable and make sense of what is happening. Well, this is the situation a lot of puppies are thrust into on their first night in their new home. Gone are their siblings and their warm body heat and calming breathing. Gone are the familiar bed, smells and noises that they have known most of their lives. Instinct tells the puppy to hide in her den and to call for mom to come protect her. But there is no mom and no den. So the calling continues.

Think about that when you bring that puppy home. You can't control all the factors, but you can try to do the best you can with those you can .

• An open expanse makes your puppy feel vulnerable and makes it hard to stay warm...especially with no other pups to provide body heat. Using a crate (one that is the right size for your pup) reduces these problems. If you insist on not using a crate, bear in mind that the puppy will need to keep warm and may prefer being in a box turned on its side rather than out in the open. 
• Don't banish the puppy to a part of the house where she can't hear that you are near. I prefer to have my puppies' crates in my bedroom so they can see me and hear me breathing. 
• It may also help to mask night sounds with a softly playing radio or a fan while they sleep. Usually I haven't had to do this, but in extreme conditions (such as a puppy coming from a very quiet environment into one that is noisy) this may help.
• If your puppy sees you and keeps whining - try to block their direct view of you while retaining their ability to smell you and hear you breathing.
• Don't forget that whining may be a signal that they have to go outside to pee or poop. Take them out and if they don't do either, put them back into their bed without letting them run around.
• Make sure they have a 'comfort' toy and a 'busy' toy with them in their bed. A comfort toy is exactly what it sounds like, a stuffed doll or something soft that they can snuggle up to. A busy toy is a Nylar bone or Kong...something they can quietly chew on if they are awake or nervous.

Your puppy will have a much easier time.

Possibly the most common mistake in potty training

I always emphasize how important it is to develop a schedule for your puppy. Eating at regular intervals, sleeping at approximately the same time every day...sticking to a schedule until your puppy acclimates to his new home and matures enough to control his body processes makes all other training all that much easier. But it is extremely hard, if not impossible, for young pups to keep urinating and defecating on a schedule.

You will be best served if you accept the fact from the start that peeing and pooping for young puppies is never on a regular schedule. You can take your puppy outside, see him pee, take him inside and have an accident within two minutes. Getting mad does nothing except cause both of you stress. Understanding that your puppy can't 'hold it' very well and changing YOUR behavior to compensate will make all the difference.

Some points to note:

• If you have recently lost an older dog, or have older dogs in the household, remember you can't expect your puppy to have the same control of their bladder of bowel movements as older dogs do. An older dog can go eight hours without eliminating...as impossible for a puppy to accomplish as it is for a newborn infant.
• The puppy doesn't have any 'intent' when it has an accident after they just came into the house. They aren't punishing you for not paying attention to them. They simply forgot to completely empty their bladder or go poop when they last went out.
• The age when a puppy starts being able to "hold it" longer varies greatly between individuals. However, if you don't start seeing improvement over time after they are 10 to 12 weeks, you may need to be more proactive. Crate training during the day can be very helpful in helping your puppy to be better at delaying elimination.
• Having a puppy is not a passive activity. Look for signs that the puppy needs to go potty. Sniffing vigorously. Wandering around in tight circles or hurriedly with nose down. Slight puffing out of their anal opening...these are all signs that the puppy has to either pee or poop.
• Whenever the puppy wakes up...in the morning or from a nap, take them out immediately to see if they need to pee or poop.
• After they are fed, take them out to pee or poop.

I don't know how many times people have complained to me about how bad their puppy is at potty training,  then I find out that there are six hours or more between times they take the puppy out. Even if the puppy is in a crate and doesn't want to dirty it, a puppy can't wait that long. So the result is that you 'teach' the puppy to urinate in his crate (creating all kinds of other problems) and create unnecessary stress for you and your puppy. 

So what should you do? When I decide to get a puppy, I prepare myself for taking him out at least once an hour and whenever I see any behavior that may indicate he has to go again. Even it we just went out a minute ago. When I see that he doesn't need to go out that often, I stretch that out to every two hours, and so forth, gradually lengthening the time between when they have to go out. All the while, I always look for the other indicators that he has to make an unscheduled visit outside, (and don't forget after they wake up and after they eat trips outside).

At night, I always put the puppy in a crate and turn out the lights. This signals that it is time to sleep and not to be active or to pee. For young puppies (8 to 10 weeks), I set my alarm for six hours or less and take them outside. For older puppies, if they seem to be able to handle it, I set the alarm for 8 hours. Any time they whine, I take them out. If they don't go, I put them back in the crate.

Realize in advance that this schedule will create a fair share of 'false alarms' where the puppy neither has to pee nor poop. In any case, if they don't do either, don't allow them to play...they need to know these are not playtime visits. Remind yourself that these 'false alarms' are all part of the training that will establish a good poop / pee reflex in your puppy and to teach them where and when it is right to go potty.

If this is all too labor intensive for you, or you have a job and can't be around every two hours, here is an option. During the day, put the puppy in an easily cleanable, safe, enclosed area. A pen in the garage or in your bathroom with the door closed will work.  MAKE SURE THAT THE PUPPY CAN'T REACH ANY THING HARMFUL! Puppies, like toddlers, can open cabinets and reach cleaning supplies. Puppies also may be able to break out of a pen if you forget to close a latch completely, so make sure you have locked all dangerous items away. I would also move anything breakable or 'shredable' away as well.

In this safe, combined area, make sure you clearly delineate an area where it is ok to pee and an area that should be the clean, comfortable 'den.that the puppy should keep clean. I like to put a dog igloo in my puppy pen and put a comfortable dog bed in the igloo, and a water dish and plenty of newspaper outside the igloo on one side of the pen. If you need to put your pup in the bathroom, I suggest a puppy bed in a cardboard box (on its side like a little cave), again with water and newspapers away from the bed.  You might want to use puppy pads instead of newspaper, however my experience has been that puppies (except for the very young) tend to shred those much more often then they do normal newspapers, so word to the wise.

In either case, make sure plenty of age and individually appropriate toys are available. When you come home, take the puppy outside immediately and let them pee and/or poop. Then clean and disinfect the area where they eliminated inside (hopefully on the newspaper).  

If you avoid making the common mistake of having your pup wait too long to go...things should go much smoother on your journey to complete potty training.

More to watch out for at dog parks

In my last post, I discussed the dangers of taking a young puppy to a dog park, because getting a deadly virus can be a real threat.  But disease is not the only danger you need to watch out for if you take your puppy to the park.  Your pup's inappropriate behavior can elicit aggressive and dangerous responses from the other dogs.

First, puppies learn the correct way to signal intent from their mothers.  Like:

     -  Is it okay to approach?
     -  I want to play with you!
     -  I accept your dominance, so please back off. 

Puppies are often taken away from their mothers before they have had adequate time to learn the correct way to signal intent.  They also don't know how to interpret the signals from other dogs.  If your puppy doesn't back off when another dog wants him to, it may incite an attack!

And think about the situation from your puppies perspective.  He is taken to a new place that is not his home, and his first instinct is to be fearful.  There are a lot of new sights, a lot of new sounds and a lot of new smells. On top of that, there are other strange dogs that are bigger than me.  Overwhelming is an understatement!  So when that one big dog approaches in an overly-friendly manner, panic can take over and your puppy's fight or flight reflex may kick in.  He can jump at or nip at this new stranger, which again, can incite an attack. 

Even if your puppy has been completely schooled in all the customary signals and behaviors that are appropriate for a group situation, it doesn't mean he is safe from  aggressive behavior.  The other dog may not be fully socialized, or worse yet, abused.  So when your sweet little pup tries to be friendly, he can get an unexpected hostile response.  

Dogs are evolutionarily pack animals.  The pack is stable because a) it has a well-defined hierarchy that is established over time and understood by the entire group, and b) it functions as an exclusive units and bonds together to keep intruders out.  The dog park scenario functions in a manner that is contrary to all of those evolutionary behaviors.  Strangers are thrust together with different group members almost every time.  No one knows who are the legitimate pack members and who is the intruder.  They also are not sure who the alpha, or boss is.  And if there are two or more dogs there that are evenly matched in level of dominance, they will do what they have done for centuries in order to survive, they fight to determine who should be the alpha and lead.  

This post may seem over-critical and a "worst-case scenario" for dog park behavior and I must admit it is.  More likely than not, there will not be any aggressive fights for supremacy.  That being said, this blog is for puppies, and how to deal with what may cause them problems.  And with puppies who tend to be smaller, more timid, and far less experienced should an incident actually occur, I feel that it is better to be hyper-vigilant to avoid injury, both physical and emotional.

Beware of dog parks!

A friend sent a message to the joyofpuppies@gmail.com mailbox that brings up a very good point that too often goes overlooked.  Puppies more often than not shouldn't go to dog parks.

Just like everyone else, when I get a cute new puppy, I want to show him off...share him with the world!  But as it is with human infants, taking canine infants out into the world is taking a huge risk with his health and maybe even his life! Puppies need a series of vaccinations so they can build up immunity to the common diseases such as Rabies, Distemper, Parvovirus, Bordatella and Canine Leukemia.  If you take your little puppy out where other, unvaccinated dogs are playing before the puppy's own immunity builds up, he can become infected and become VERY ill.  Your puppy doesn't even have to come into contact with the unprotected dog.  Viruses can live on the ground, especially in grass, so a dog park can be infected even if there are no other dogs there when you and your puppy visit it.

I started looking up various recommendations for how long after your puppy receives his shots that he will be safe to meet dogs you aren't sure are vaccinated.  But the truth is (just like everything else it seems!) every puppy is different.  Even puppies from the same litter may need different lengths of time to build up immunity after vaccination.  So, it is best to refer to Rule #1.  Get yourself a good veterinarian and ask her to let you know when it will be OK for your puppy to go out into the wide, unprotected world.

In the meantime, a dog park is one of the worst place to take a young puppy, along with other public places like a grooming salon or dog washing stand where numerous dogs can visit in succession without thorough sterilization.  This is even true of the sidewalk in front of your vet's office, so keep your puppy in his crate and don't set it down outside, or keep him in your arms until you reach the examining table. Even if a business has a rule that proof of vaccinations is required for dogs to be there, you can't be sure that every owner has complied and the vaccinations are up to date, or if a sufficient number of days have passed for their dogs to become fully immune.  And some dogs can carry and spread a virus after he is vaccinated, even though he doesn't show any symptoms himself.

You love your new baby puppy.  So keep him safe. Stay away from dog parks and socialize your pup at home under very controlled circumstances.  He'll have plenty of time playing with other dogs when he gets a little older.

Toys!!!!

Something that may seem so much common sense now, but wasn't commonly known when I studied animal behavior back in college, is that toys (sensory and behavioral stimuli) are crucial to the development of your puppy's brain functioning.  Regardless of how intelligent your new puppy is, or how intelligent you might feel she is, having some good, safe toys around will help her learn and be happy.

I found a good, concise discussion about this on eHow.  Some of the points I would like to highlight:

• Safety is rule #1
• Using discarded clothing and shoes as clothes can create a problem because puppies (and people for that matter) can have a hard time differentiating between old shoes and your brand new Michael Kors sandals
• Also, if you have young children with favorite stuffed animals, avoiding stuffed animal puppy toys may help avoid major conflict and drama
• Pups go through many different stages of development, so things that were appropriate and interesting last week, may lose their effectiveness this week
• Toys made from soft materials can be very dangerous.  And each puppy is unique.  I have had puppies who couldn't (or wouldn't) even rip a paper towel.  I've had others that could shred any dog bed made.
• Kongs and Nylabones are great!  They come in a wide range of sizes to match the wide range of puppy sizes.  And they are made to withstand usual puppy wear and tear.

Some things I would also add:

• Soft toys can be dangerous, but so can soft towels, blankets or dog bedding.  While most dogs won't rip up their beds, puppies are curious and teething.  A wool blanket could become a choking hazard.
• Other things to be careful of are "puppy pads" that are designed to help potty train your pup.  Puppies think the entire world is a toy, and this often includes puppy pads.  And if your puppy rips the pads apart, she can ingest the padded linings which can either choke her or cause digestive issues.  I have found that unless the puppy pad is physically separated from the puppy by a screen, or I am around to stop them from ripping the pads apart, only very young puppies will leave the pads alone.  
• I have had a lot of success putting Nylabones in the puppy's crates at night.  I make sure that they are large enough that there is no possible way for the puppy to swallow them.  I find that if the pup gets up in the middle of  the night, or even if they get up a few minutes before me, they learn to quietly chew on these as pacifiers or just to keep them occupied until they either fall back to sleep or I get up.  And those last few minutes of sleep for me are GREAT!

• Even the best toys need to be checked often.  They can become damaged and no longer be safe because of sharp edges or broken pieces.  And never underestimate your puppy.  I once had one who could slice a Kong.  This was extremely rare, but if I didn't check, she could have possibly hurt herself with a piece of the toy.

• Think carefully before you engage your puppy into tug-of-war games.  Many breeds love this game, but consider how big and strong your puppy will be when she is fully grown.  Also, if there are small children around, think of what may happen if your puppy starts tugging on their clothes.  When my kids were small, just as I avoided giving my puppies stuffed toys, I thought it best to avoid tug-of-war games.

And finally, YOU will of course be your puppy's favorite toy.  But try to be an intelligent one.  

• Handle your puppy appropriately for her age, 
• Provide guidance to teach what is OK to do and what is not OK,
• Avoid letting them use YOU as a chew toy.  As they grow older and stronger this won't be so cute.  Also, it may not hurt you, but puppies chewing on small children can cause unnecessary injury and fear.
• Remember they are babies, and like babies they may suddenly get tired (or cranky because they are tired) so watch for the signs of over-stimulation and let them have time and space to rest.

It's all Greek to your puppy!

The hardest thing for me to do when I am helping others with training their puppies is "training" their family.  With puppies, the cuteness factor helps to scramble the brains of otherwise smart and logical people.  The drive to be successful with their puppy's training often makes people panic when they try to learn how to give even a single cue.  For example, I always start with explaining it's crucial to keep it simple and keep it consistent.  Commands must especially follow this formula.  So, when we start teaching a puppy to sit, I recommend one single word (usually "Sit") coupled with one consistent hand gesture.  It really doesn't matter what the verbal and hand commands are, just that whatever you use, use it all the time to mean the same thing, and don't use several different commands to mean the same thing.

However, after explaining this clearly to a puppy's family and starting a puppy off with a base of learning to sit with the command "Sit," it's not unusual for something else to happen.  The puppy's family member will say, "Sit!"  "Down!"  "No!" "Please Sit!"  "Sit down!"*  The puppy will usually lose interest at this point and and not only not sit, but his attention will start wandering away.  But put yourself the puppy's place.  The puppy is learning a new language.  This would be tantamount to you not knowing English and someone saying to you, "Get me a soda!"  "A beverage!"  "No, not that! Get me a pop!"  Since you don't know what any of those words mean, it's impossible for you to know what to do.  And if this is paired with the person flailing their arms or jumping around, it's probable that you might just give up too.

So, if you are determined to train you puppy, think about the fact that it will really help if you are equally focused on disciplining yourself as well.

Puppy training cha-cha

Unfortunately, dog training is like everything else.  There isn't a smooth direct path from beginning to success.  The process is a constant "Cha-cha" -- two steps forward, one step back.  The key is to understand this and accept it from the beginning.  Unrealistic expectations lead to unnecessary frustration.  Unnecessary frustration leads to worse results.  Instead of moving forward, you move backwards and everyone becomes less happy.

Each puppy, (like every person) has his own schedule, and if you expect your puppies to always learn to be potty trained in 7 days, chances are you'll be disappointed more often than not. Ask your mother if you and all your siblings were potty trained by the time you were 1 year old.  But if you don't sweat the setbacks and celebrate each little victory, you should find yourselves progressing forward and the learned behavior more persistant.

Also, remember that training a puppy is a process that requires that both of you learn.  They learn new behaviors....you learn how about particular puppy's unique reactions to the different situations you provide him.  Always pay attention and you'll learn a lot from your puppy's failures.  And, pay equal attention to the circumstances around your puppy's successes.  Too often people forget to reevaluate what are the variables surrounding success.  They just take it for granted.  Then, when there's failure next time, you can't figure out what caused the failure.  For example, I had a puppy who would do well without having potty problems when I left him alone with his sister at home.  Then one Fall day I left them alone and went to dinner.  When I came back, the puppy's sister was fine, but the little boy had left me a little pile in the middle of the floor.

What I had noted about the other successful times was that I always took the puppy out to poop and pee before I would leave, but then left him free in the house during the day.  If it was nighttime, I would put the puppy in his crate before I went out.  Since it was Fall, it got dark much earlier than I expected.  I realized that all the successes had been when the sun was out.  This time, he was out in the open, in the dark.  Sure enough.  Any time I left this particular puppy out of his crate, if I left the light on, we didn't have any problems.

I have handled many more puppies (and other baby animals) than probably 95% of the population, but I never fail to learn something new from each new puppy I get.  And, the next puppy down the line gets the benefit of that learning.

At this point, I know most of you reading this are probably saying, "blah, blah, blah!"  But if there is a lesson that will make the most difference in how successful your puppy training will be, it's this one.  And, the more patient you are, the faster the training will accelerate.

So, if you really love having the sweetness of a cute puppy in your home, but you can't learn to have the patience you need to deal with the bumpy road to progress, you might seriously consider having someone who is skilled in puppy training take over or help you train your puppy.  Both your puppy and you will be much happier.

Get Ready BEFORE the 4th of July

If you have a dog who is fearful of the noise associated with fireworks, or a puppy who has never experienced the unique sounds of a holiday like the 4th of July, I think that it is much better to start getting them ready BEFORE the 4th.  Waiting until the actual date, and rushing your puppy into the house just as the booming begins not only may not be effective, it can signal to the pup that those noises ARE something to be afraid of...creating a problem that might not have been there to begin with.

Here are some things that I have done that seem to help the problem:

• Keep the dogs indoor as much as possible during the days leading up to and through the 4th of July.
• Introduce a fan and a radio to create white noise. It usually is hot anyway, so the fan can solve two problems as it helps to keep the pups cooler as well.  During the times firework noise is most likely to occur, you can turn up the radio volume a little.
• Stay close to your pup during the time when noise is the worst. If you don't want to miss the fireworks yourself, ask someone to sit with the pups.
• During the times the noise is going to be the loudest, engage in some active play with your pup. A healthy game of tug of war and your behavior that signals you are having fun and are not concerned will help them realize that nothing is to be feared.

I think it is extremely important not to shield puppies from noise, even when they are very small. I periodically introduce noises, dropped metal pans on concrete, heavy garbage cans, doors slamming, engines starting, and more so they are used to the fact that noise can come unexpectedly.  In all these cases, I make sure they are in a location where they feel safe and have somewhere to retreat to (a dog enclosure, someone's lap, a dog bed) if they want to.  I also start with softer noises (rubber dish dropped from 12 inches as opposed to metal dish dropped from 3 feet), then work my way up to louder and louder noises as the pups begin showing that they aren't concerned. 

These techniques have worked for me even with very timid puppies.  That being said, all dogs are not created equally and some puppies or dogs will never be able to handle loud noises easily.  For those, I strongly suggest you work with your veterinarian to see if you need some medication for holidays like the 4th of July.  I also suggest you try to keep "white noise" around all the time.

Leash training - guided chaos or Go, Puppy, Go!

Once the puppy is comfortable with the concept of controlled wandering within a safe area, it's time to start "guiding" the pup's movement using the leash as a means to communicate.  My belief is that the leash should be 95% communication and 5% control, and as you, the human get better at communicating, you will need the leash less and less for control.

There is some irony about how I start using the leash to actually guide the puppy since it will seem more like chaos than control.  What I do is start the puppy in a safe area that is wider than what we have been working with before.  As the puppy is doing her usual wandering, I suddenly jiggle the leash a little (not pulling on it at all) and excitedly say, "Let's Go!"  at the same time I take two excited running steps, careful not to travel far enough to make the leash taut.  If the pup follows, running after me, I keep running a few more steps, then abruptly change direction back the way we came, again jiggling the leash and saying, "Let's Go!" I do this over again about two to four more times, zig zagging back and forth.  Then I end by saying "Stop" and stopping abruptly.  When the puppy comes to a stop I shower her with praise and attention.

If the pup doesn't follow at first after the two steps, I change direction back the way I came, again jiggling the leash and saying, "Let's Go!" and slapping the outside of my thigh (usually the side closest to the puppy, but I don't think it really matters).  Interestingly enough, I have never had a puppy NOT follow me when I do this.  They all usually change direction when I do as well.  This is fun for them, and the abrupt change from quiet to chaos to quiet seems to keep them engaged.

The problem I do run into is that some puppies will want to run through your legs or nip at your heels.  This is not an act of aggression, but behavior most likely bred into the puppy's ancestors in order to herd sheep and other animals.  Also, some puppies (like some people) are just klutzes and can't run side to side easily.  When I have situations like these, I first try to use a longer leash and stay further away from the puppy, changing direction before the puppy can catch up with me.  If I can't do this because the puppy is too big or too fast for me to stay apart from it, I enlist a helper who acts as the target, (who takes on the role of running back and forth) while I say, "Let's Go!" and jiggle and leash holding behind the puppy.  I keep enough pressure on the leash to keep the puppy away from my helper while still running in tandem back and forth.

This exercise may seem chaotic, but once the puppy gets used to the fact that the leash will signal a direction change, she seems to understand that even when you are not playing this game she should follow the shaking and general direction the leash is going.  I love this phase of leash training, but must admit it gets me winded sometimes.  But looking on the bright side, it helps me burn some excess calories so I get double benefit from working with my pup!

My puppy won't stop biting her leash!

Okay.  By now you have your puppy NOT biting at her leash, at least most of the time.  If your puppy is able to ignore the leash some of the time, but still insists on trying to keep biting it and won't stop when you say eh-eh and take it out of her mouth, remember, she isn't trying to be bad.  She may just be getting bored or overwhelmed and looking for a diversion. To combat this you may want to try to replace the leash with something more appropriate to chew immediately after you remove the leash from her mouth.  This can be an 'easy to carry' chew toy or stuffed toy, but shouldn't be anything edible (including pig's ears or rawhide chew bones) or something hard for the puppy to control (like a ball).  Those things tend to distract the puppy too much from the task at hand.

I like to use a length of ordinary clothesline rope.  I make it long enough so it is at least 1 to 2 times my height. I also make sure that this rope is cotton (or polyester) not treated with any chemicals, and wash it with soap and bleach then fully dry it before I use it with my puppies.  Once the rope is ready to use, I put a large knot at the end of the rope and then create several interlocking slip knots, pulling the lose end through the last loop.  If the puppy is small, I make sure these slip knots are very tight so she can't catch her head in any of the loops.  I put a knot (or knots) on the other end as well so the rope won't easily slip out of my hand if the dog grabs and runs with it, but generally hold this rope trainer near its middle.

I use this rope for several different things when I train my puppies, but with regard to leash training, I use the slip-knotted end as a diversion if the puppy insists on chewing her leash.  When she starts chewing on her leash, I say "eh-eh" (or "no" if the puppy has been trained to respond to "no") and take the leash out of her mouth, replacing it with the rope end.  After repeating this a few times, instead of actually reaching down and taking the leash out of her mouth, I say the "eh-eh" command to stop and then drag the knotted rope end past the puppy slowly, giving it a few shakes while it goes by.

Most puppies will drop the leash and go after the rope.  After I let her play with the rope for a few seconds, I pull it up out of her reach and go back to leash training.  This has worked for me with all kinds of different dogs.  Whether the puppy is an Australian Shepherd, Australian Cattle Dog, Poodle mix, Terrier, Catahoula Leopard Dog, Chow chow or Chihuahua, my rope distraction usually works for me when the puppy has trouble not biting her leash.   However, to make this work you must remember the following:

• You have to be consistent 100% of the time when your puppy attempts to bite her leash. If you only stop her on occasion, she will take much, much longer to stop this behavior.
• If you use the clothesline method for distraction, you can never yank at the rope once it is in the puppy's mouth.  You can injure the puppy and pull out some teeth.  Once the puppy latches onto the rope, put absolutely no pressure on it (but don't let her get the rope so far into her mouth that she could swallow it!)  Let her play with it and carry it in her mouth until she drops it to follow you when you move.
• DO NOT let your puppy get the rope so far into her mouth that it can be a choking hazard.  The bigger the puppy, the bigger the rope and knots you should use.  
• Never let your puppy play with the clothesline at any time if you are not connected to the other end and controlling it every second she is in contact with it.      

And although I have had this work in many cases, making short work of leash biting behavior, there are always exceptions.  One puppy I had who was a hound mix never would chase the rope.  She never even showed any interest in it.  To get her to stop biting at her leash, I started with her fetching a ball for very short distances in a closed space without a leash on her.  I rolled the ball further and further and had her bring it back to me each time (this was easy because we were in a space the size of a closet).  As she got more engrossed in this game, I attached her leash to her collar and continued the game.  After a few sessions like this, this puppy stopped biting the leash when I put it on her and paid more attention to whatever we were going to do.  

Leash training - next step

Once you have acclimated your puppy to having a leash attached to his collar without biting it, the next step I like to take is what I call "controlled wandering."  I let the puppy walk wherever he wants within a "safe" area I determine ahead of time.  This could be a patch of grass in your yard, or a 8 x 10 square area on your patio.  I keep the leash slack at all times, following the puppy slowly but not guiding him anywhere in particular.  However, if the puppy gets too close to the edge of the safe area, I don't follow and let the leash slightly tighten.

If you are using a martingale collar (see blog on collars, June 17, 2010), the tightening will signal to the puppy to stop to release the pressure.  I stand firm, not letting the puppy go outside the area, but giving the leash slack again if the puppy changes his direction so he stays in the safe area.  If the puppy just keeps wandering within the safe area, I just let him go.

Of course it is better if the safe area is not boring.  I place some toys, interesting objects (like a brick or rock) and a water dish within the safe area.  If your puppy starts getting used to this exercise and wanders around  freely without responding negatively to being kept within the borders of the safe area, you have made excellent progress and your puppy will be primed for more guided walking.

If your puppy doesn't want to stay in the safe area and pulls at the leash, showing his displeasure at not being able to go out of the area, then use the same technique of walking towards him or distracting him by calling his attention to a toy within the safe area.  If you walk towards him, walk past or around him to another spot within the safe area, reeling in the leash as you near him so he doesn't get to go out of the safe area.  Then stop so there is no tension on the leash anymore, but the puppy hasn't "won" the tug of war by getting you to go directly to where she / he is trying to get you to go, but to somewhere else.  It also helps if you don't keep focused on him, with your body pointed int he direction he wants to go (i.e., outside of the safe area).  Face toward another direction and look at or touch an object within the safe area.

Alternatively, you can sit down on the ground and invite your puppy to sit in your lap for a cuddle, a vigorous scratch or whatever he might like to do.  Again, patience and taking small steps are the keys to success. Once I get the puppy to understand how we should stay in the safe area, and that the leash is a way to signal the safe area, we can go onto the next step, most often in another session. I end the session by picking up the puppy or (if they are too big to pick up) patting it on the head and giving it a lot of praise and tell the pup it's time to go home.  Once inside, the pup gets a nice treat and time to let his training session sink in.

Beginning leash training

After you choose the right collar (see my last post dated June 17, 2010) it's time to move onto leash training.  I find that the biggest barrier to getting good leash training accomplished is that people set up the expectation that this should all be completed in one session.  Impatience will get you nothing but frustration.  Going into leash training with the understanding ahead of time that it should be broken into several small steps will not only keep you and your puppy happier, it will end up making leash training much easier and faster.

For the first step, put your puppy's collar or harness on if it isn't already on.  I have found getting on the ground and putting the puppy on your lap, petting, cuddling and scratching him / her is a good thing to do while you start putting on the collar and attaching a leash.  Alternatively, if your puppy knows the "sit" command, you can ask him / her to sit while you put their collar on and attach the leash.  Then make sure you take the puppy out or over to a place they like so they associate the collar and leash with something they like, such as a walk, or playing in the yard.

I find it best to use a strong but relatively lightweight leash. If it is a big puppy, a leather leash will be lightweight enough, but I like to avoid chains if at all possible.  Chains can cause pain to you if the puppy jets off and the links tighten around your hand.  They also add weight and noise that may distract your puppy.

The entire first lesson will be focused only on getting the puppy NOT to bite on the leash or pull back.  If there is one thing that you must remember, never, ever, ever get into a tug of war with your puppy.  If the puppy starts pulling back, either walk towards them or distract them with a diversion.  If you walk towards them, walk past or around them and stop, so there is no tension on the leash anymore, but the puppy hasn't "won" the tug of war by getting you to go directly to where she / he is trying to get you to go, but to somewhere else.

Step two: Stay put and let the leash go slack.  The puppy will likely start sniffing around and exploring.  He will take a few steps and you will let them go wherever he wishes within the length of the leash.  Once he gets to the end of the leash, if he tries to start pulling, don't let him. Stand firm or move in another direction a couple of steps (not in the direction opposite to his pulling because that will just get you into a tug of war). If the puppy follows, praise him and give him lots of hugs and cuddles.  You may want to use treats as reinforcement, but I prefer to train as much as possible without using food as a motivator.

If your puppy keeps pulling back, try picking her up (if they are small enough) and reposition her (don't pick her up and carry her, just reposition her so she is looking in a different direction).  Then repeat Step 2.

Whenever your puppy tries to chew on your leash, stop her immediately.  I like to use the command "Eh-eh" instead of "No" because for some reason, the puppies seem to respond better to it.  Take the leash out of her mouth and pull it up away from her reach. Pick her up and reposition as above or walk a couple of steps in another direction and start Step 2 again.

If your puppy doesn't start pulling back, just start taking a couple of small steps (not looking at the puppy) and stop, seeing if the puppy will follow. If your puppy follows and stops when you do, exploring the new area you have moved to, give her lots of positive reinforcement, pick her up and take her inside the house.  Once inside the house, give her one of her favorite treats. Going back into the house is one of the exceptions I make to using food as a motivator. This way, the puppies associate "home" with where they get food.  This tends to dissuade them from going far away from home without you, and gets them to come back quickly if they jet out the front door when you don't want them to.

This will be enough for the first lesson.  This lesson should be repeated several times until you find the puppy doesn't bite at the leash or pull back from you when their leash is on.  Keep each lesson short and end on a good note.

Collars - So important to pick the right one

Getting your puppy a good collar that he or she doesn't mind wearing is so important to ensuring happy leash training.  I remember the first time as an adult when I had to decide on what type of collar to use on my puppy.  A trainer I was working with told me to use a Choke Chain.  She told me that using a choke chain with a leash would be the best way to get him to slow down and learn to heel.  But it never did.  He was a very strong, exuberant puppy, and he kept pulling on the leash to the point where the chain would choke him.  I was afraid that he would hurt himself by damaging the bones in his neck.  So I would back-off his training.  It took me awhile to find a better alternative and by that time, my puppy had already developed a habit of pulling at the leash which took me a very long time to break.

The alternative I moved to was the Gentle Leader headpiece / collar, seen here to the right.  While this is a humane device, I found my puppy really didn't like it, so I had to "bribe" him to put it on.  However, I have heard from many others who swear by the Gentle Leader (or the very similar Halti), especially when working with active breeds like border collies.  But I didn't like having to bribe my puppy into agreeing to put the collar on.  Additionally, I don't think this type of head gear works well with very small puppies.

During my work for Tony La Russa's ARF, I was introduced to the "Martingale Collar."  I had used martingales before for my horses, but had never heard of them for puppies.  But these are wonderful!!!  I find that they make them in sizes that fit even the tiniest puppies.  With the martingale, the puppies never can choke themselves, and since they always release once the puppy backs off, they get instant relief.  I've used the martingale now for every puppy I have had and they all seem to respond to it.  I can get much less "wild lassoed bronco" behavior when I use these with a light leash, and they are small and light enough not to bother the puppies.  They are easy to put on or take off and easy to clean.  Also, unlike choke chains and easy leaders, the martingale can be left on the puppy even when not on the leash.

Of course you may choose to use a harness instead for small puppies, but I find that the although the harness is great at protecting the puppy from harm, it doesn't provide as much direct communication to the puppy so training them to heel, stop, and turn seems to be more difficult, especially when you are talking about a very young puppy who has never been on a leash before.

In any case, I strongly advise against the horrible "Pinch Collar" as shown here to the left.  I think it's a travesty to use this device which can cause injury to the dog.  If a puppy is so difficult to control, that no leash can help other than this type, then it's best that that puppy only be handled by an expert, and you should not try to train it yourself.  You will be much better off if you never pick a dog you can't control.

Next:  Some tips on beginning leash work.

Rescue, Shelter or Breeder?

In my opinion, no one else gets to have an opinion whether you get your new furry baby from a rescue organization, a shelter or a reputable breeder.  When making such an important life decision for your entire family, and for the innocent puppy, whatever is important to you to make sure that choice keeps everyone happy and healthy is the most important consideration.  For instance, while it may be considered more politically correct to adopt from a rescue organization or a shelter than to get a puppy from a breeder, if it is best for your family to get a puppy whose parents and grandparents have been bred to be calm and non-shedding, than a breeder will most likely be your best bet.  Read my blog post, "Picking your puppy -  pure of mixed breeds?" from May 8, 2010 to get more information on things to consider when you are trying to decide between a mixed and purebred puppy.

The one exception I do have is to "Puppy Stores" (see my last blog post on Mall Puppy Shops on June 10).  I see no upside to purchasing from Puppy Stores.

There are some things to expect when dealing with responsible breeders and rescue organizations.  You might be surprised to find out breeders and rescue foster parents will be extremely selective in finding who adopts their precious babies.  They most probably will ask for references (including your veterinarian) agreements to provide proof of neutering, and proof of home ownership or permission from your landlord that you can have a dog.  These are all good things.  It means the people you are dealing with value their puppies and want to provide you the best match more than they want to make money or place the puppy.

That being said, there have been instances where breeders and rescue fosters have gone overboard, doing home inspections that are more intrusive than necessary, or asking for unnecessary personal or financial information.  If you find yourself feeling uncomfortable with your puppy's seller / adoption organization, there is nothing wrong with choosing not to go forward.  It may not seem like it, but even when you have to pass up the "perfect puppy" another wonderful perfect puppy will become available.

On the other hand, please don't be taken in by the multitude of puppies for sale scams that are popping up all over the place.  Visit http://www.aspca.org/fight-animal-cruelty/puppy-mills/puppy-scams-cons.html to get some valuable information about the scams you can run into.

Mall Puppy Shops? Not a good choice.

I have to start with a confession. I absolutely love to go to malls that have "Puppy Shops" so I can see the little puppies in the windows. But at the same time, I feel there are so many things wrong with the business of selling puppies that way that I can't understand why anyone would buy a puppy from them.

First, the prices are ridiculous. For a purebred puppy you end up paying over $1500 for a puppy without a good pedigree and which you have no history - of their health, or their parents.  You can get some extremely well bred, closely monitored purebred puppies from a reputable breeder, and can have the history of their parents and even their grandparents in many cases.  You can even actually see the parents and watch how the parents behave in most cases.

Next, there are more and more "designer dog" mixes being sold through these stores.  Names like Puggle (pug/beagle), Chiweenie (Chihuahua/Dachshund) and Maltipom (Maltese/Pomeranian) all 'sound' cute, but in reality, they are not very different than the "mutt" mixed breed puppies you can find in at any time in any animal shelter.  It baffles me that people pay over $1000 for a puppy of this type when you can find extremely cute mixed breeds that look exactly like these designer mixes for a modest donation at the shelter or rescue organization.

Third, I can never be sure if purchasing a puppy in a mall store is supporting the awful Puppy Mill industry. Having seen and worked with puppies and moms rescued from a puppy mill, it makes my heart sad to know that the industry is still going strong.

Lastly, putting puppies on display for "impulse sale" goes against everything I believe is important for you to consider when you make the serious decision to bring a puppy into your life.  You need to understand what you are getting into.  You have to understand what type of behavior you can expect from that breed and that particular bloodline.  You have to understand what type of time commitment you will be making.

If you aren't willing to research what types of dogs would work for you, and if you aren't willing to spend the time to drive to breeders or shelters in your area to find a puppy, you probably shouldn't get one.  This is not because I feel everyone should think or act like I do when selecting a dog or puppy.  It's because I know how much effort it takes to raise a puppy, so making the right choice...and understanding that you are ready to make that commitment is more than 80% of what will make your relationship with your pup happy.

Rule #3 Choosing a Puppy means making a HUGE commitment!

No one loves puppies as much as I do, but I know I am in that rare minority of people who appreciate the opportunity to clean up poop as often as possible to keep my canine babies healthy and happy. My neighbors have gotten used to seeing me walking dogs in the middle of the night, and my family knows that when there are puppies in the house, I will be getting up to feed them every 8 hours.

That might seem obsessive, but the truth is, it is not. Taking care of puppies is like taking care of any newborn. If you don't stick to a schedule, if you don't keep their glucose levels from dipping, you can expect behavioral and possibly physical problems. So, if you are deciding to get a puppy, you have to commit to making the pup's schedule your priority for several months. If you don't make this commitment, you aren't doing your puppy or yourself any favors, and both of you will suffer.

Another thing to consider is the entire family and environment you will be bringing the puppy into. I intentionally looked for an adult dog for the first dog we got my kids. My youngest was petrified of all animals and we knew we had to nip that problem in the bud before that fear became permanent. As cute and small as puppies may be, they can have needle sharp teeth and nails, and need to be taught not to chew on kids or kids' toys. They also have to be taught not to jump up. Can you imagine what would have happened if a puppy jumped up and nipped at my daughter's face? Also, as much as I love puppies and my kids I love myself as well, and I didn't think I deserved having to potty train a child and a puppy at the same time.

I got a wonderful 3 year old adult dog, fully leash and potty trained. She never chewed on a stuffed animal or sock, and daughter and dog became close friends, and my daughter's fear was gone forever.

If you still want a new puppy, and circumstances make it so you can't make the kind of commitment right now that a puppy requires, consider starting with an older dog. There are breeds that are very puppy-like in how they look and act. Papillions, Pomeranians and Shetland Sheepdogs are some of my favorites. Some of my friends like Cavalier King Charles Spaniels or the ever-popular Chihuahuas. There are wonderful small mixed dogs at most shelters, and many of these may already be leash and potty trained.

So remember Rule #3 when you think about getting a puppy...you owe it to yourself.

The right water bowl

Picking the right water bowl may seem trivial, but since this blog is dedicated to enhancing the joy of puppies and living with puppies, I want to touch on this subject. As discussed many times, there are indeed both breed and individual differences in behavior, and these will impact your choice (and ease of care) when selecting a water bowl.

But before we go into water bowl differences, let's start with the universal information you need.

• Access to clean, fresh water for your puppy is VITAL! Water should be changed at least once a day.
• At least once a week, or more if soiled, clean the water bowl.
• Use an anti-bacterial soap and make sure you rinse thoroughly.

Also... If the bowl was a) used by other dogs before, or b) became soiled because your puppies either pooped or peed in the water, or c) your puppies are sick (this includes both respiratory and gastro-intestinal illnesses), you should sterilize the bowl before offering it back to your puppies.

• This can be easily accomplished by soaking the bowl in a solution made of 3/4 cup of household liquid bleach to each gallon of clean water.
• After the bowl is cleaned as described above, soak it in the bleach solution.
• Make sure the bowl is submerged and soaked for at least 10 minutes.
• Rinse thoroughly! This is very important. Then allow to air dry if possible.
• I like to purchase 2 bowls and alternate using one and cleaning/sterilizing the other

Okay, back to differences. Differences between size, breeds and individuals translate in differences in how they treat their water bowls. And things to be considered.

1) One of the first things to realize is that most puppies will soon begin to consider the water bowl as a toy. Because of this, I like to use water bowls that can't easily be picked up or tipped over. Bowls like these to the right and left, have a rim that makes it easy to pick up and/or tip over. This is true regardless of whether the bowls are made of plastic, ceramic or metal. The metal ones can become irritating noise makers as well.

Even if they don't have a rim, they can be possible be knocked over, picked up and tossed around.

To prevent bowls being knocked over, I recommend bowls with sloped sides for puppies. The rounded rim also makes it hard to pick up.

Plastic, hard rubber and aluminum and ceramic bowls are easier to clean and sterilize, but ceramic bowls have a higher chance of breaking into dangerous shards when dropped.  However, sometimes a puppy or group of puppies can get ambitious and pick up even a sloped aluminum bowl. In those cases, a very heavy sloped ceramic bowl may be your best bet.  Just be sure that you choose one that is heavy-duty and non-breakable.

Also note that nothing is fool-proof. There will be puppies who can figure out how to knock over bowls that even you have trouble picking up and tipping over. That's why I like to opt for plastic sloped bowls to eliminate both the breakage and noise factor.

2) Size of the bowl is very important as well. Some puppies like to get way into the bowl, putting both front paws (or sometimes all four paws) into the water. Bowls that are too large can be dangerous. Bowls that are too small will mean you have to check them more often during the day.

3) One litter of four Scottish Terrier mix puppies that I had had two male pups who loved to 'dig' in the water dish until it was empty. It was impossible to keep fresh water available for the litter. I used a water bottle like the one pictured below.

This is also a great option to use when housing your puppy in a crate when traveling.

When selecting water dishes, another thing to be aware of is that puppies aren't always careful. Dishes that are lower can get poop and even pee into them. One way to avoid this if it keeps recurring is to get an elevated water dish, or simply elevating the dish by placing it securely on a platform. I have duct-taped water bowls to the top of a small cardboard box weighted down inside with bricks. This makes it difficult to clean the bowls so having multiples is helpful.

More on crate success

Crates are wonderful, but as with any good tool, they need to be used or modified according to the situation. Just putting a puppy into a comfortably prepared crate won't guarantee success. Here are some things that have worked for me when I have a puppy that is having a little trouble becoming acclimated to his/her new sleeping place.

- This is up to you, but I strongly recommend (and have always been successful more quickly ) if at night they are close enough to see and hear someone sleeping in the room with them.

- If you get a whiner, try blocking their direct vision of you with a box or by draping something over that side of the crate, leaving the other sides of the crate exposed so they can still hear you.

- When it’s time to get up, go directly to them, praise them and take them out to pee as soon as possible.

• Young puppies can only hold their bladders a few hours depending on age and individual tendencies. It’s like a baby, you might have to wake up in the middle of the night, give them a little snack and take them out. Then back to the crate

- Many times the puppy whines in the middle of the night because their blood sugar is down. For a healthy pup, they usually should be fed every 8 hours – consistently.

• If you avoid free-feeding and feed on a regular schedule, the puppy will most likely also quickly develop a poop reflex. The puppies will be ready to poop soon as they finish eating.
• So, it becomes an easy routine, give the pup food. Then take the pup immediately outside ( when I have multiple pups, I make it easier by feeding them out on the grass and never inside until they are potty trained). Wait till they pee and poop (patience, patience).
• Then praise them, give them a treat and take them back in to play or the crate to sleep.

- Always take the puppy in the crate when you need to drive in your car – resist the temptation to have them ride next to you until they are older and trained to sit still and not pee.

• Again, make sure they have “safe” toys in the crate and that you carry extra towels and a plastic bag in case you have to make a quick clean up of the linens
• Put the treats in the crate to get them in, but don’t add more during the trip.
• Again, it is probably better if they can see and hear you.

- Schedule is EVERYTHING until they are big enough to keep their blood sugar and other bodily processes going steadily. So, if you can keep them to as close to a feeding sleeping schedule as possible, it will pay dividends in both a healthy and calm puppy.

- If you can’t go to sleep when the puppy has to, simply put them in their crate and turn down the lights. You can work quietly or watch TV in the same room.

- If they wake up during the night NEVER let them sleep with you. If they fall asleep in your arms, transfer them into the crate, make sure little treats are in there and close the door.

- If they get up and it is not time for them to eat, take them outside ON A LEASH. Don’t let them run around.

• Once they do their business, or show that they aren’t going to do their business, repeat the process you use when you first put them to sleep.

Any other crating tips out there?

Crate-training 101, or "Your dog's crate is your best friend."

Dogs and other pack animals have developed the behavior of sleeping in dens. So taking a new puppy and expecting it to be comfortable sleeping in the open on the floor, or on the bed with you is unfair and often will be an unsuccessful endeavor. Using a crate and teaching your new puppy to sleep in it will provide a multitude of benefits for both you AND your puppy. It provides your little pup with his special place where he/she can feel safe, secure and comfortable.

Either a wire crate or the many plastic commercial crates available today can work. Because of the 'security' component, and the closer approximation to a den, I prefer using the plastic crates with wire screen doors and windows. They are also easier to sanitize and move.

Pick a crate that fits your puppy - one where your puppy can turn around easily, but not big enough where he/she can run around like a wild banshee. Too large of a crate will make it more difficult for the pup to feel 'safe' and too small of a crate will be uncomfortable. If you are unsure of what will work, ask your vet for suggestions.

Here are my pointers on things you can do to help make your crate the best friend you AND your puppy can ever have:
- Always, always have the baby sleep in the crate at night – from the first time you bring them home if they don’t have their mommy with them.

- If they have siblings, consider having them sleep in separate crates next to each other

- While they are awake, you can leave the crate near you with the door open. That way they can go in and out when they want.

- After awhile, they often go in on their own to sleep with the door open

- Make the crate really comfy with old towels or other warm, cuddly comfort materials

- Leave some nice toys in the crate whenever you have to close them in

• Not kongs or other toys you play fetch with, but a soft stuffed animal; I have found larger stuffed animals (about 2/3 the size of the puppy) very effective.
• And a chew bone (depending on the ability to chew – don’t let them have one they can break pieces off – rubber or plastic work well). They often chew the bones when they are stressed or bored. It comforts them and helps to keep them quiet. Rubber ball or tennis balls in a tied up sock can also be good, but may teach your pup to go after socks in general.
• Just like little kids, if they seem to have a favorite toy, make sure it goes into the crate whenever they do unless the toy could be a choking hazard.

- They “usually” won’t mess their crate because their genetic behavior is to keep the sleeping den clean so predators can’t smell them

• That being said, it’s not unusual for a slip up (once they do that my experience is that they don’t like it and likely won’t do it again). If they do, change the linens as soon as possible, clean the crate and toys (and the puppy if necessary!) and don’t make a fuss about it.

- Every night when you go to bed, put them in the crate to sleep with the door closed

- Whenever you put the puppy in the crate put a few little treats in there. Soft treats (Trader Joes has some good ones) should be broken into little pieces and placed around the crate like easter eggs. The pieces can be as small as trident gum pieces…it is more about smell and taste than to get full on anything.

• While he is searching them out, quietly and gently close the door.
• Never give him treats through the grate of the crate – only inside. If you do give him treats through the grate, he will whine for them.

- Turn the lights out or down

- Say goodnight!

- This is up to you, but I strongly recommend (and have always been successful more quickly ) if at night they are close enough to see and hear someone sleeping in the room with them.

- If you get a whiner, try blocking their direct vision of you with a box or by draping something over that side of the crate, leaving the other sides of the crate exposed so they can still hear you.

- When it’s time to get up, go directly to them, praise them and take them out to pee as soon as possible.

• Young puppies can only hold their bladders a few hours depending on age and individual tendencies. It’s like a baby, you might have to wake up in the middle of the night, give them a little snack and take them out. Then back to the crate

- Many times the puppy whines in the middle of the night because their blood sugar is down. For a healthy pup, they usually should be fed every 8 hours – consistently.

• If you avoid free-feeding and feed on a regular schedule, the puppy will most likely also quickly develop a poop reflex. The puppies will be ready to poop soon as they finish eating.
• So, it becomes an easy routine, give the pup food. Then take the pup immediately outside ( when I have multiple pups, I make it easier by feeding them out on the grass and never inside until they are potty trained). Wait till they pee and poop (patience, patience).
• Then praise them, give them a treat and take them back in to play or the crate to sleep.

- Always take the puppy in the crate when you need to drive in your car – resist the temptation to have them ride next to you until they are older and trained to sit still and not pee.

• Again, make sure they have “safe” toys in the crate and that you carry extra towels and a plastic bag in case you have to make a quick clean up of the linens
• Put the treats in the crate to get them in, but don’t add more during the trip.
• Again, it is probably better if they can see and hear you.

- Schedule is EVERYTHING until they are big enough to keep their blood sugar and other bodily processes going steadily. So, if you can keep them to as close to a feeding sleeping schedule as possible, it will pay dividends in both a healthy and calm puppy.

- If you can’t go to sleep when the puppy has to, simply put them in their crate and turn down the lights. You can work quietly or watch TV in the same room.

- If they wake up during the night NEVER let them sleep with you. If they fall asleep in your arms, transfer them into the crate, make sure little treats are in there and close the door.

- If they get up and it is not time for them to eat, take them outside ON A LEASH. Don’t let them run around.

• Once they do their business, or show that they aren’t going to do their business, repeat the process you use when you first put them to sleep.

Any other crating tips out there?

Appropriate for first-time owners, maybe not!

The internet is a wonderful advancement for matching potential puppy parents with their new babies. The immediacy between availability and widespread notification of the puppy's availability has sped up the matching process immensely and undoubtedly helped to save many lives.

I have noticed that some of these internet listings include the phrase "appropriate for first-time dog owners." This has always bothered me. Like all puppies, all new owners are not created equal, so I am uncomfortable with anyone making the blanket statement that a particular puppy will do well with anyone who has had zero dog ownership experience.

From my perspective, first-time owners should NEVER get a puppy that is not already solidly potty-trained and doesn't yet have the fundamental sit, come, no biting and don't jump up commands down pat. That's because these are the behaviors that will create the most unhappiness when a person experiences them and doesn't have the tools to modify any improper behavior.

The result is that much too often pups will be punished inappropriately (for instance, shoving the puppy's nose into his poop) or puppies are returned, or puppies are unfortunately relegated to banishment outdoors.

So, if you are thinking about getting a dog for the first time and are attracted to the 'cuteness' of a puppy, think about these alternatives:
- Consider a slightly older, already trained puppy, 6 months to a year old; there are many of these puppies available at shelters and through rescue groups.
- Consider adopting an adult from a smaller breed that maintains 'puppy-like' qualities; for example, a Norfolk or Norwich Terrier or mix.
- Prepare to have an experienced trainer do in-depth work with both your puppy AND your family, at least until all the basics are completely under control

You will get the most enjoyment out of your puppy by having patience and waiting for the one that has the size, physical traits, age (there is a world of difference between 8 weeks and 12 weeks), behaviors and training level that will minimize your stress. Maximize your joy!

The myth that there is one "Right Way" to train puppies

When my friends were pressing me to start this blog, I researched the information already available on the subject. One of the first thing that stood out to me was that most of these resources espoused 'The Right Way' to train puppies. When I first saw that phrase it made me wince. If there is anything I learn with each new puppy in each new litter, there is no single right way to train any puppy. Each puppy is unique and like humans react differently based on his/her genetics, physical environment and learning to date. In a single litter, one pup may be totally food motivated so that training without treats is close to impossible. Others may be responsive to visual commands, verbal commands alone are less effective. Some can't stand being wet or soiled. Others relish rolling in their own poop.

What I feel very strongly about is the right way to train your individual puppy is to spend quality time observing your puppy. If you can't remember what you see, write it down. And when you start trying to train your puppy, treat every instance as a 'test and learn' opportunity. In college and graduate school, I studied learning theory and behavior modification. That's why many of my techniques and the process I go throug with each individual is based on a systematic series of observation, test and modification, repeated in a manner that moves us closer to the desired behavior. Even if something works, I suggest you also try something else. For instance, if you try motivating behavior with a affection and praise and that works, try it sometimes without the verbal reward. Then sometimes with only verbal praise. Try it back and forth and see what works better, or if one type of reward works better.

I prefer to train puppies using affection and praise as much as possible, using treats only when asking the puppy to go into its crate. I will be the first to admit this doesn't always work. You simply can't get some puppies' attention unless you give them a treat. However, I have found that with many, many young puppies, attention and praise, cuddling and rubbing whatever their favorite spot is (ear, chin, tummy) works best. And in my foster-mom role, I prefer to try to train the puppies so they will respond to their new parents without increasing their caloric intake, and so they equate their puppy parents as someone to obey even if they can't smell the presence of treats.

Even extremely young pups can learn basic behaviors such as being happy to be in a crate, being led on a leash, and believe-it-or-not, to be house-broken before they are 12 weeks old.

The important thing is like everything else, each individual has their own abilities and own time-table.

Rule #2: Start with a Complete Check-up

A thorough check-up is always less expensive and troublesome than a complete overhaul. So why do so many people who always have a car completely checked-out before they buy it not think about doing the same for a puppy?

There are some very good reasons to do this. First, a complete check-up can pick up issues your puppy may have that will require more care or a different training regimen. A puppy may be partially deaf or blind and not knowing this may cause you to misjudge your puppy's behavior. Vision and hearing impaired animals, like their human counterparts, may be more easily startled if something approaches unexpectedly, especially from the puppy's blind spot. Also, you may have interpreted your puppy's inability to be trained as defiance or lack of intelligence or motivation.

This goes beyond major challenges such as deafness, and includes possible physical limitations on diet or activity. Understanding a physical challenge will allow you to use training techniques that will be more effective. In the case where you as a puppy parent are unable or unwilling to deal with a special case puppy, it is best that you know as soon as possible so the puppy can be placed in a home where his / her issues will be best dealt with, and both of you will be happier.

Another reason why an initial complete check-up is so important is to determine baseline. By establishing a puppy's temperature and other vital signs, as well as noting gait and morphology, your vet will be better able to detect when something in the future is amiss.

Even the best breeders and rescue organizations may not have the time or ability to fully check out every puppy they sell. For your puppy's sake and yours, start with that complete check-up.

Do you have a puppy question???

If so, you can add a comment to this post or email us at joyofpuppies@gmail.com. Or if you want us to do some research on specific puppy topics or products, we're here to do that too.

Puppy stories you want to share are also always welcome. One of the reasons I started being a foster mom for puppies, is that I really enjoy observing behavior during a time where their physical and sensory development changes so rapidly. I love the challenge of seeing how much training we can achieve in a short time.

I'm also fascinated by the significant behavioral differences you see between the breeds. Jack Russell Terrier pups (and mixes) seem to love to run at your heels, high energy flashes of activity that can trip you if you don't watch out. Puppies from herding breeds like Border Collies, Welsh Corgis and Australian Shepherds exhibit definite herding behavior, even as little babies. My bull terrier mix puppies don't herd, even if I try to elicit the behavior. A rope chase game with those pups more often ends up in a tug-of-war than a game of chase.

Some of the puppies dig. Others won't ever dig, but jump. Tiny little dachshunds can generate huge deep-throated barking and are fearless, even in the presence of huge dogs five times as big. And it's all because of us humans. It's our intervention that caused the differences in size, appearance, physical capabilities and behavior between the breeds.

That's not to say that is a bad thing. It's akin to how different groups of people are attracted to different jobs. But, what is a problem is that people so often think that all puppies will react the same way...and are disappointed or punish their little terriers for digging, when that is a behavior that is their legacy.

So in a nutshell, making sure you understand the total package, including behavioral traits, BEFORE you pick you puppy and matching that to your comfort zone is the most important choice you can make.

Feeding the runt of the litter

Runts who are not submissive but simply lack the ability to position themselves in the litter for proper nourishment are easier to deal with. In extreme cases, they are rejected by the mother and have to be bottle fed. In most cases, they make it to weaning, but will lag in size and ability to thrive during this most important growth period.

When I have a litter of newly weaned puppies, I 'group' feed them so they can learn NOT to be surprised of react negatively to being bumped and pushed by other dogs when they eat. This goes a long way towards desensitizing the pups while they eat so they don't snap at other dogs or children (now and when they get older) when intentionally or accidentally touched during feeding.

When I have a runt puppy, I often can't leave him/her with the others because the runt won't get enough food to stay optimally healthy. What I like to do is to separate the runt...sometimes feeding them separately in their crate (even if the crate is usually shared with siblings during sleep time). This way the runt gets enough nourishment and should rapidly improve in weight. It also reduces the stress the puppy feels during feeding, so it helps reduce anxiety for the runt puppy.

But I quickly found out that if you do this with some runt puppies, they start to feel "superior" to the other puppies. This can make them a little 'bolder' than they should be when they are around their siblings again. This artificial boldness can be detrimental as it can upset the puppy hierarchy. The puppies learn from each other the consequences of what they should or shouldn't do. If a puppy decides that it doesn't have to 'play well with others' you can develop a thorny socialization problem.

So, to counteract this issue, I start separately feeding another puppy as soon as the runt has recovered to a more 'normal' size and weight -- when he/she is beginning to thrive. I start rotating all the puppies (including the runt) between solo eating and group eating. By separating two out, the remaining 'gang' at the group food dish is smaller and more manageable for the runt. And, no puppy is consistently the 'special' puppy. I have had this work to correct this artificial boldness and after a short time, the runt is big enough and socialized enough to eat with its siblings with no outside help.

Even if you don't have an entire litter of puppies to deal with, if you take a runt puppy home and have other dogs that you feed in the same area, you may still feel a need to separate the puppy for awhile because of the pup's fearfulness or agitation at feeding time. I would suggest you might then want to feed the runt in a crate that is very near the other dogs so they can see the bigger dogs but can still feel protected. You have to remember that this puppy just came from a litter where it was pushed around and deprived of access to food. Once it learns that it has free access to its food and doesn't have to equate feeding time to a wrestling match, you can start opening the crate door during feeding -- and eventually feeding your puppy outside next to the bigger dogs.

The fearful or highly submissive puppy

The extremely shy, reluctant or nervous puppy. Sometimes we pick them because our heart goes out to them, the underdog so to speak. Sometimes we pick them because we think they will be calmer, more docile and easier to control.

My feeling is that puppies that have this personality trait should never be adopted by a first-time dog owner. A fearful puppy can be much harder to train and require much more patience and understanding. In some cases, fearful puppies become more reactive and potentially more aggressive towards other dogs and people -- especially those they are meeting for the first time.

Warning signs of a fearful puppy can include the following:

• inordinate amount of shaking when approached
• hesitant or overwhelmed when approached
• immediate rolling over and showing his/her belly when you go near or touch the puppy
• overactive startle reflex in response to sound or movement
• reflex urination when approached
• fear of hands reaching out to the puppy
• refusing to go forward, backing up or freezing in place when on the leash

Overly submissive pups require a lot of patience, a calm environment and constant attention to socialization with new people and other dogs. However, fearfulness can be reduced significantly, making for a happy, enjoyable friendship. Unfortunately, if not handled correctly, it can escalate into high-anxiety for both you and your dog, and, sometimes highly aggressive behavior. If you suspect your dog may be fearful, if you take the time to get some help on socialization from an experienced dog trainer, you may save yourself a lot of frustration in the long run.

The dominant puppy

As mentioned in my previous blog, many litters will have a dominant puppy -- one who is more aggressive and potentially more active than the others. This is the natural order in wild dog packs and is critical to ensure the order and ultimately the health of the entire family. There is no time for debate. A leader has to emerge and proactively take charge. And successive generations have to keep producing 'heirs' to the leadership so there is a leadership succession, and when leader ages and is no longer the best to lead, a new leader that the rest of the pack respects needs to be available to take over.

What does the dominant puppy look like? The answer to that is not based on size or gender. It is not necessarily the first born. In fact, in my Aussie's litter, the dominant puppy was the smallest female pup, number 5 in the birth order. The only way you can determine which puppy is the dominant one in a litter is by observing their behavior. You will start to see, even when their eyes and ears are closed, certain puppies will push their way nurse first. Once they are mobile and active, you'll see them start to take control...pushing their will onto the other puppies. They will likely be quicker to react to perceived aggression, and move to the front when the food bowl is put down.

So, is it a good or bad thing to choose a dominant puppy? It all depends on what you are looking for. On the plus side, a dominant puppy will be more apt to be curious, to try things and by doing so, speed up training. They are also by definition, less timid, which can help with socialization with people.

Potential issues to be aware of include the tendency for dominant dogs to be overly aggressive with other dogs and potentially with people, especially small children. They may be very possessive of toys, sleep areas, food and of 'you'...their parent (which can cause problems with new human relationships you might start).

My feeling is that there is no good or bad about dominance. It's just helpful that you note if your puppy exhibits dominant behavior and keep mindful of that throughout your puppy's training. One very important thing (and this goes for all puppies, not just the dominant ones) is that you make sure your puppy knows that he/she is NOT the alpha, or ultimate leader of the pack. You have to be consistently and blatantly clear that the puppy, while loved and cuddled by everyone in the family, will never be allowed to exhibit dominance behavior on the humans in your family's 'pack.' If you fail to do this, your relationship with your dog will never be optimal, and can develop into serious problems.

Be aware that having ONLY you, the puppy parent higher on the dominance heirarchy can be an equally serious problem. I have seen situations where people think it is cute that the dog listens only to the mom or dad in the family, and doesn't respect the spouse or children. If the dog does have any aggressive, or even fearful tendencies, situations where the dog perceives danger or is stressed can result in the dog attacking the other family members...even if the dog had never attacked or shown aggression towards any family member.

Another very important issue to control for dominant pups is to make sure you pay attention to socialization with other dogs. It's a good idea to have your puppy 'on leash' when introducing him/her to another dog, especially for the first time, and maybe for the first few minutes even after the first meeting. Watch how your puppy reacts to the new dog. For his/her first dog acquaintance, it may help to choose a docile, low-energy dog. The size of the visiting dog may not be as critical, only that the dog doesn't show aggression towards the puppy or move in a manner that may startle the puppy.

My female Aussie was kept for awhile in a dogrun with a Rottweiler and a German Shepherd when she was young, before we got her. She was the dominant puppy of her litter, and that behavior was exacerbated during that time as she had to demonstrate to the other larger dogs that they could not steal her food. She was successful, and was respected by other dogs, but for the rest of her life, I had to take special care socializing her with other dogs, and I could never let down my guard when she came near dogs she never knew.

But even if you have a small dog who doesn't live with any other dogs, be mindful if your puppy exhibits dominant or aggressive or dominance behavior. If you notice aggressive behavior such as growling, barking and posturing, stop the behavior immediately. Also be extra careful when you take a dog with this type of personality on a walk or to a dog park. An overly dominant puppy or dog who has never been challenged by other dogs, especially one who has been taken from its mother early, may not know how to behave in the presence of other dogs. What he/she and you think is normal verbalization and high energy could be perceived by the other dogs as an outright challenge which could precipitate an altercation.

Dominance or submissiveness in a puppy does not determine how happy you will be with your puppy, or how happy your puppy will be. The responsibility for this lies with you, the puppy parents to provide the right socialization and training, and take care not to place your puppy in a situation that will instigate unwanted aggressive behavior.